GUIDE: Mount Rainier National Park in Washington State


What you’ll find in this post:

  • An extreme amount of information about visiting Mount Rainier National Park broken down into


The tallest mountain in the lower 48.

MINI GUIDE:

  • Drive time from Seattle: about 2.5 to 3 hours

  • Best time to go: Late summer to early fall (Chinook Pass and Cayuse Pass close in winter)

  • Cost: $30/car or annual interagency national park pass $80

  • Must See Locations: Paradise & Sunrise

  • Favorite Kid-Friendly Hikes: Grove of the Patriarchs Trail, Nisqually Vista Loop, Myrtle Falls, & Silver Falls.

  • Stay: Paradise Inn, National Park Inn, or camp at Cougar Rock or Ohanapecosh Campground

PRO TIPS:

  • Look into the The National Parks and Federal Recreational Land Annual Pass if you are going to other National Park or federal recreational areas. $80/year, also sometimes allows you to skip the line at some popular National Parks.

  • In winter, watch for snow & avalanche warnings. Be prepared for snow conditions even in the summer. Weather on Mount Rainier can change quickly and become dangerous. Check HERE for more information from the National Park Service.

  • In summer, watch for fire & air quality conditions.

  • Arrive early or be prepared for long wait times at park entrance. Parking at popular locations can fill quickly during the peak summer season. Reserved parking if you stay at the Paradise Inn!

  • Check WSDOT for local road conditions and carry chains in October - May.

  • Make inn and camping reservations early as they tend to fill up quickly.

  • Carbon River & Mowich Lake are located in the southwest part of the park. Most roads in this part of the park are closed due to damage, or are rough gravel roads. This entrance does not connect with another roads in the park.



Directions From Seattle

Ways to get to Mount Rainier from Seattle:

Southwest entrance - Nisqually entrance

  • Open year round via Stevens Canyon Road SR 706.

  • Fastest entrance to use if you’re going to Longmire or Paradise.

  • Gate closes nightly during winter.

  • Closest town to the entrance is Ashford, WA.

Northeast entrance - White River/Sunrise entrance

Southeast entrance - Stevens Canyon entrance

  • Fastest entrance to use if you are going to Ohanapecosh or add about an additional 20 minutes to Paradise.

  • Even though it’s a bit longer, we like taking this route going to Paradise as it’s a pretty drive.

  • Further down Cayuse Pass 123, you’ll pass the White River/Sunrise entrance on the way to this entrance.

NOTE: Carbon River & Mowich lake are located in the northwest part of the park and this entrance does not connect with the other part of the park.

Northwest Entrance or Carbon River:

  • No driving past entrance due to flooding in 2006.

  • Biking and hiking permitted past entrance.

Mowich Lake Road Entrance:

  • Closed in winter season.

  • Road is mostly gravel and has numerous potholes.


Mount Rainier National park is likely my favorite place on the planet. BIG words, I know. I’d venture to say I’ve stayed at the Paradise Inn probably over 20 times. In my younger days there was nothing better than becoming fast friends with the summitters and staff. The adventures we’ve gone on in the park, the people I’ve met, the stories I’ve heard, it’s added so much zest to my life.  

The majestic mountain stands tall amongst the Cascade Mountain Range at 14,411 feet, making it the fourth tallest mountain in the lower 48. Paradise and Sunrise are two access points to the mountain. Paradise leads to Camp Muir the basecamp. Longmire & Ohanapecosh are great places to explore in the park. Carbon River & Mowich must be accessed from a separate entrance in the northwest. Driving is only permitted to the northwest entrance as a flood washed out the road in 2006. Bikes and hiking are permitted beyond the entrance. 

I’ve broken this post down into sections based on specific “neighborhoods” of the park are Paradise, Sunrise, Longmire, Ohanapecosh, & Carbon River/Mowich Lake. I haven’t spent much time in the Carbon River/Lake Mowich area so this guide doesn’t cover that section of the park.

Here is my guide to help you plan your trip to the mountain.

Paradise

Paradise is my absolute favorite place in the park and likely one of my favorite place on earth. The lodgey vibes of the Paradise Inn, the meadows packed with wildflowers in late August, and that smell of the sweet subalpine terrain.

Lodging at Paradise

Paradise Inn

  • Location: In Paradise, sitting at 5,400 ft on the south slopes of Mount Rainier

  • Open: Seasonally late May - October

  • Pro Tips:

    • Staying at the Inn gives you reserved parking near the Inn at Paradise.

    • You’ll be at the lodge during off hours, you’ll have way less people on the trail early in the morning or in the evening time.

    • If booking a European room, request to be away from the kitchen.

The Paradise Inn is a beautiful lodge built in 1916 is nothing short of amazing. The annex was added in 1921, and just about 100 years later the Paradise conducted renovations. After a couple of seasons, the project is complete and the renovations give the inn a breath of fresh air.

The inn is open seasonally from the end of May to the beginning of October. Rooms in the lodge are European style rooms, meaning there is a shared bathroom. Rooms in the annex have their own private bathroom. Be prepared to take a step back in time, as there is absolutely no cell phone service in the park and zero WiFi. You have no choice but to disconnect from the world. It is so awesome to see people disconnect, socialize, and interact. If you should need to connect to the world, the inn has pay phones. They take credit cards, but bring quarters just in case. 

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With that said, this isn’t a 5-star luxury hotel. It’s fairly basic, but what it lacks in amenities it makes up for in ambiance, company, and location.

This is the most simple yet perfect hotel room. Double bed, en suite with sink and mirror, shared bathroom, and fresh mountain air! And it even fits a pack-n-play. It is our home away from home. For about $130 a the night, it isn’t too pricey.

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Staying at the Inn has many advantages. You get to see this part of the park at twilight and sunset without a lot of visitors. People tend to start arriving around 8:00am and leave around 4:00pm. Those nightly and early morning strolls can be pretty magical with almost no one around. It’s easy to get to the ranger led talks in the Inn & in August it’s a short walk to the Henry M Jackson Memorial Visitor Center night skies talks. Also, you get reserved parking at Paradise, which can sometimes be difficult.

Currently reservations can be made for the 2022 summer season.

Cougar Rock Campground

  • Location: Sitting at an elevation of around 3,000 feet. Around 10 miles or about 20 minutes from the Paradise Inn.

  • Open: Seasonally late May - October

This campground is closer to the Paradise Inn. It hosts 173 campsites, open from late May to early October. This one you’ll want to make sure to book early. Reservations can be made on Receration.gov and start taking reservations in November or January for the following summer season. Again, no electrical hookups at any campgrounds in the park, but flush toilets! I’ve stayed a few times, but was always too busy with friends to take any photos.

Food Services at Paradise:

Tatoosh Cafe

  • Located: In Paradise Inn

  • Open: When the Inn is open, late May through October

A great place to grab a morning coffee if you are staying at the Paradise Inn. Also, my favorite place to grab an adult beverage after a long day hiking to enjoy on the porch to take in the view of the Tatoosh Mountains and Rainier. You can also find snacks, to go lunches, and drinks.

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Dining Room at Paradise Inn

  • Located: In Paradise Inn

  • Open: Closed 2021 season due to COVID. Typically open late May through October

It keeps getting better and better every year!! The soups are so comforting on a cold stormy day and we enjoy seeing all the local PNW ingredients they incorporate into the menu.

Paradise Camp Deli

  • Located: In Henry M. Jackson Memorial Visitor Center

  • Open: During the summer season

Located in the Visitor Center in Paradise, this open for lunch during the summertime, this is great place to stop after a long hike around Paradise. Offering delicious options, such as a taco bar which is served from mismatched Le Creuset's dutch ovens.

Paradise Picnic Area

Near lot 5, this area has picnic tables areas. You can also find park benches and table out side of the Henry M. Jackson Memorial Visitor Center and a picnic area a bit south of the main parking lot. We like to bring our chairs, propane backpacking stove, and have a mini picnic near the parking lot.

We made tomato and olive tartines while enjoying the view of the Tatoosh Mountain Range. Picnic areas are closed during the winter season.

Activities at Paradise

Henry M Jackson Memorial Vistior Center

Typical open year round, but closed in 2021. It’s usually open weekends in winter, and daily from May to October. You’ll find a handful of lobby exhibits, ranger led activities, a gift shop, and Paradise Deli Camp. This is a great place to stop and ask rangers any questions you have about hiking around Paradise or get current trail updates and tips.

Paradise receives 40 to 80 feet of snowfall per year. Snow on the ground can last late into the summer season. Below is a photograph showing just how fast subalpine climate zones changes over two short months. The left photo below was taken at the end of May and the right was taken at the end of August.

When the Inn opens in late May expect a lot of snow and changing weather conditions. And be prepared that even in August the weather can be pretty terrible in the mountains.

Cocktail Hour at the Paradise Inn

In the afternoons, around 4:00pm, the piano player plays live music in the main grand lodge. You can get a drink from the Tatoosh cafe and grab a chair in the large lodge room. If the day is cold, cozy up by the fire.

Night Skies

Meet at the Henry M. Jackson Visitor Center around 9:45pm for a night of astronomical magic. We saw the rings on Saturn, the gas giant Jupiter, and the cheese like texture of the moon! All in one night thanks to the volunteers, their high powered telescopes, and immense knowledge of the night sky. Great activity for kids! 

View of the Milky Way.

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Ranger Led Talks

Enjoy at nightly ranger talk at 8:30pm in the Paradise Inn with topics varying from the history of the park to the healing power of nature.

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Playboard Games

Bring a game from home, or check one out at the front desk, we love sneaking up to the second floor of the lodge and playing board games late into the night.

Read by the Lodge Fireplace

My favorite place to hang in early mornings. Even in the middle of summer, the mornings can be cold. Warming up and reading book before heading out on our daily adventure is a highlight. The people I’ve met here, the stories I’ve heard.

Wildflowers at Paradise Inn

In mid to late August, depending on seasonal weather, the wildflowers come out in full bloom. From Lupine to Indians Brush, almost every color of the rainbow litters the mountainside. Sunrise also has tons of flowers, they seem to bloom bit later than Paradise.

Wildlife in the Park

My favorite animals in the park are the marmots. They are just so cute and I love watching them sunbathe on warm rocks in Paradise on a sunny summer day. Look for bears in valleys in the park and watch the Ptarmigans molt and become darker throughout the season. One day in late May we hiked to Camp Muir and ran into a beautiful fox enjoying its breakfast.

Places to Stop Near Paradise

Reflection Lake

Just before you arrive Paradise giving some of the most beautiful views. Late May is on the left and mid September is on the right.

Paradise Valley Road

Probably my favorite spot to stop and look at the Tatoosh Mountains. Many times this is where we’ve seen the most amount of bears or marmots playing on nearby rocks.

Winter Sledding

Sledding at Paradise is a popular activity. Check HERE for winter safety tips and information.

Kid-Friendly Hikes at Paradise

My 4 Favorite Kid Friendlier Hikes from Paradise

Below I am sharing the 4 hikes that we’ve done with a baby/toddler. The first two are short and easier hikes that are likely suitable for younger children. The latter two are a bit longer and more difficult, but have been great when carrying our little one in a pack.

Many of these hikes are interconnected or continue on to the next destination. The Skyline trail leads to Camp Muir, the basecamp for summiting the mountain.

The Washington Trails Association are the real experts on these trails, so I’ll link each hike with their guide. It’s helpful to use their in-depth guide of the trail and comments section for recent trail information.

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  1. Nisqually Vista Trail: 1.2 miles of fully paved and stroller accessible trail.

2. Myrtle Falls: About 1 mile fully paved and stroller accessible trail.

3. Skyline Trail is 5.5 miles, but you can continue on to Camp Muir.

This hike I recommend a hiking pack. A popular hike that loops around Paradises subalpine forest, in this 5.5 miles you gain a little over 1,500 foot elevation gain. You can start this hike clockwise from the parking lot of Paradise and go clockwise or counter clockwise. I enjoy mixing it up each time we go.

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4. Deadhorse Creek Trail 3.25 miles and continue on to Morraine Trail 2.5 miles,

Another hike I recommend using a hiking pack for the kiddo. This trail tends to be a bit less crowded than the other trails.

Not so Kid-Friendly Hikes at Paradise

Camp Muir

This 9 mile expedition with just under 5,000 miles of elevation gain, is a strenuous hike leading to Mount Rainier’s basecamp. Would make for a great life experience for an older future mountaineer.

Paradise Visitors Guide is a great resource provided by the National Park Service. Check it out for even more information.


Sunrise

The road to Sunrise closes seasonally, the visitor center is open early July to early September, weather permitting. This is the second location in the park with access to the mountain. This day use only area sits at 6,400 feet and on sunny days you’'ll get a crystal clear view of the Emmons Glacier, the largest surface area glacier in the lower 48.

On the weekends at the Sunrise visitor center you will find multiple ranger talks and guided hikes. Located in Sunrise, open only about 90 days out of the year from July through September. Offering sandwiches, snacks, and a hot bar. 

Sunrise Nature Trail

Not so Kid-Friendly Hikes at Paradise

Below are a few hikes that I probably wouldn’t fully commit to with a toddler. Although, I might start them and turn around after we’ve had enough. Make sure to bring lots of water, it can get hot in the summer.

Glacier Basin

Oh the view. I love how part of the trail is in the valley. This used to be a mining road that followed the river. I love being in a valley, but still getting incredible views of the mountain.

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Burroughs Mountain Trail

It's just under ten miles, this hike is hard, but it is so worth it! Trekking to just under 2,500 feet in elevation gain, views are incredible. Do the loop and add Shadow Lake & Glacier Basin trails.

Longmire

Stay: National Park Inn

  • Location: Longmire

  • Open: Year round

  • PROTIPS: Longmire is a great place to snowshoe during the winter months.

This inn is open year round and makes for a great basecamp during the winter or if the Paradise Inn is booked. Located in Longmire, 11 miles from Paradise.

In Longmire you’ll find the National Park Inn, Longmire Museums, and the Wilderness Information Center, and the Longmire Plaza comfort station with restrooms.

The Inn is open 2021, however, the museum remains closed. The wilderness information Center is typically open late May to October. Typically rangers can be found outside daily from 9:00am to 4:00pm.

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Longmire Museum

Closed in 2021 due to COVID, an educational stop.

Longmire Giftshop & Comfort Station

Longmire Wooden Truss Suspension Bridge

Behind the National Park Inn, you can find this historic suspension bridge built in the 1920's strung across the Nisqually River. You can drive a car over it, but it just leads to a campground and forest service road. 

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Longmire Hikes

Trail of the Shadows

A very short and easy stop, mostly flat and just under one mile. A fun place to walk around on hot summer day.

Ohanapecosh

Staying at Ohanaepacosh

Ohanapecosh Campground

The Ohanapecosh river flows through the middle of this lush campground set in an old growth pine forest. With over 188 sites, this is a great place to camp. Most sites are first-come-first serve in the summer, but a handful are available to reserve a head of time on recreation.gov. NO electrical hookups are found at any campgrounds in the park.

And yes, it is common to find me with my flock of inflatables and friends floating in some river in Washington State.

Food Near Ohanapecosh

The Mountain Goat

Out of the park, while camping at Ohanapecosh I always enjoy heading to the Mountain Goat for a delicious coffee and warm scone. On Saturdays in summer they usually have a small market outside.

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Activities at Ohanapecosh

Ohanapecosh Visitor Center

Closed due to COVID, this visitor center. Typically open from June to October. A small center with a few displays. Find rangers here to ask any hiking questions. In normal summer seasons you’ll find a plethora of activities like, Junior Ranger programs, evening programs, ranger led hikes, and immersive programs.

River Fun

Near the entrance of the campground is a great place to spend he day near the river. We grab a bunch of inflatable and snacks to take down. There are also so cool rock to jump off.

Hikes at Ohanapacosh

Silver Falls Loop

The trailhead starts at the Ohanapecosh campground and is an easy 3 mile hike to a beautiful roaring waterfall. 

Grove of the Patriarchs Loop

Near the Ohanapecosh campground, about three miles north on SR123, this 1.5 mile hike follows the swerving river to a giant zig-zagging boardwalk built among 100 year old pines. The suspension bride crossing over the Ohanapecosh river is a super cool feature. A must do we love doing with a little kiddo.

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Box Canyon

Great place to stop and take a very short hike around. The 180 foot slot canyon which was carved by thousands of years of glacier melt. Here you might even run into people doing the Wonderland Trail, a 93 mile trail around Mount Rainier.

Carbon River/Mowich

I have not spent much time here, and flooding in 2006 washed out the road. Only biking and hiking is allowed past the entrance.


Our Weekend Itinerary at the Paradise Inn

Friday:

2:00pm Leave Seattle and enter the park through the Stevens Canyon entrance.

5:00pm Arrive Paradise & Check In/unload car.

5:15pm Freshen up and head to the main lodge room for a cocktail while listening to the piano player. Put name on the dining room list if there is a wait.

6:00pm Leisurely have dinner.

7:30pm Go on a stroll around the Inn.

8:30pm Ranger led talk in Paradise Inn.

9:45pm Play board games on the second floor of the lodge. In August walk across parking lot to the night skies show.

10:30pm Head to bed.

(With a little kiddo we head to bed earlier now and skip the 9:45pm festivities)

Saturday:

I always enjoy waking up early in the morning and reading a good book in front of the fireplace. Often I’ve met some incredible people here. Once the sun starts to come up we hit the trails and take granola bars along the way. We try to mix up the trail we do, but I do enjoy the Skyline trail. We usually spend the morning hiking and come back to have a sack lunch in the late afternoon outside of the Inn. Then it’s time to shower, change, and stop by and grab tea a fresh cookies that are offered around 3:00pm. Then we head to the lodge and read and wait until cocktail hour and do it all over again.

Sunday

Similar to Saturday, but we typically have a relaxed morning and check out. On the way home to like to do a small hike and end up leaving through the Nisqually entrance.

Other super awesome blog posts about Mount Rainier with kiddos:

Top Things To Do with Kids in Mount Rainier National Park by Marine in Mommyland

Best Hiking at Mount Rainier National Park: Beautiful, Kid Friendly hikes by 2 Travel Dads

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